The homes in Vilaranda look as worn as ever. Weathered stone, fatigued tile: the mountain village where Mira grew up reflects the aging of its remaining residents. homecoming once-new cobblestones now old Somewhere in Vilaranda We park on off the cobblestone road that runs through the village. Anna, one of Mira’s three deaf-mute cousins, is…

We began the family trip phase of our vacation yesterday with a welcome dinner at my sister-in-law Maria Do Carma’s house. Mira’s oldest brother, ‘Cico and his wife, Aliza, as well as her second-oldest brother, Armindo. Dinner included freshly barbequed steaks, pork ribs, rice and potatoes, fresh garden salad, and homemade red table wine. These…

Mira and I at the castle in Sortelha   The AC didn’t work. We switched to new rooms around 3:00 in the morning. The hotel didn’t charge us for three rooms, of course.   morning sun Another yawn at breakfast   Belmont. A village that boasts an historic Jewish community, with roots preceding the expulsion…